The hip-hop world is a less bling-bling place these days.
The genre has been defined as much by diamond-encrusted watches and platinum chains as its gritty lyrics. But recently it has scaled down its flash, a trend insiders say has become more pronounced during the recession.
“The day of conspicuous consumption is gone,” says Tamara Connor, an Atlanta-based stylist who has created looks for chart-topping rappers, including Lil Wayne.
“We’re still going to see some bling, but it’s just not going to be as much,” Connor says. “Instead of four diamond necklaces, it might just be a diamond bracelet —- and it’s a piece the celebrity wears all the time. They’re not changing their jewelry out everyday.”
Ben Baller, head of Los Angeles-based jeweler I.F. & Co., says the shift is most pronounced among up-and-coming rappers, for whom a steady income is seeming like less of a sure thing. Rap sales have declined along with the rest of the music industry.
Before, a new artist might spend $25,000 of a $30,000 advance on a chain, according to Baller, who counts Fat Joe as a client.
“Now they would rather try to spend $5,000 and $6,000,” he says, adding, “they’re willing to talk about options by using sapphires, using very, very low quality gold.
“Some people (are) even wanting to mix diamonds with [cubic zirconia] so it would not be completely ungenuine.”
Cost cutting is major for the industry in which the carat-weight of one’s ring could carry more cache than record sales.
Ostentatious fashion has been in hip-hop’s DNA since Slick Rick donned layers of opulent gold chains in the ’80s.
But in recent years, rap kings like Jay-Z and Diddy have displayed their swagger with looks that were more boardroom than bling, with button-down shirts and designer suits.
Though Young Jeezy may still sport a huge chain at times, flashy jewelry is not integral to his image.
“He’ll wear a scarf and no jewelry, maybe a bracelet, with a baseball hat, a T-shirt and a pair of jeans,” says Connor, who has also styled the Atlanta artist.
Rapper T.I. has the A.K.O.O. clothing line, which features military-inspired woven shirts, polos and denim, with most items ranging from $44 to about $200. Ralph Reynolds, A.K.O.O.’s creative director, said the clothing label reflects a more price-conscious customer in hip-hop.
“Some of those same people who would reach and stretch and do everything they could to get that Louis (Vuitton) will now say, ‘I already have these two bags, let me pay the rent,’” Reynolds says.